Sunday, March 1, 2009

Turning Japanese I think I'm turning Japanese...

...I really think so.

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Feb. 24th was a busy day for us, as we learned about traditions in the Japanese theater, dress, and tea ceremony.


The Noh Theater



We began our day meeting with Yuki Ujihara-san (left) and took a brief tour of the public theater for the Noh in the Saitama prefecture.

We had no hopes of meeting with any actors because usually visitors are not allowed to, but Yuki Ujihara-san used to be a student of this Master of the Japanese Drum, and when he saw her in the theater, he invited all of us for a short performance and lesson.



In the world of the Noh he is their most honored. It was a rare privilege to be in his presence.



His name as a Noh Master is Kanze Shinkuro san. His given name is Miyamasu Shinichiro san.




We all tried this drumming technique, which proved to be incredibly difficult.




Noh is a major form of classic Japanese musical drama that has been performed since the 14th century. It evolved from various popular, folk and aristocratic art forms, including Dengaku, Shirabyoshi, and Gagaku. Noh has been slow and stylized for several centuries with roots that can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty's Nuo, Sarugaku and folk theatricals.

By tradition, Noh actors and musicians never rehearse for performances together. Instead, each actor, musician, and choral chanter practices his or her fundamental movements, songs, and dances independently or under the tutelage of a senior member of the school. Thus, the tempo of a given performance is not set by any single performer but established by the interactions of all the performers together. In this way, Noh exemplifies the traditional Japanese aesthetic of transience, called by Sen no Rikyu "ichi-go ichi-e".


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Later that afternoon, we met with this charming Tea Ceremony teacher, beauty salon owner and Noh performer, Mariko Imade san, whom invited us to her home for lessons in Japanese dress and tea ceremonies.



Traditions in Japanese dress - the kimono.

The word "kimono" literally means "thing to wear" (ki "wearing" and mono "thing").





Turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so.





Turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so.







Turning Japanese, I think we're turning Japanese...






...We really think so.


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Tea Ceremony





The tea ceremony is a social event and sometimes a religious experience, which stresses aesthetics.

An informal tea ceremony, known as chakai, consists of serving a sweet and some tea, or even a small meal with the sweet and tea.






The steps to the ceremony are to clean the serving bowls, boil a pot of water, serve a sweet treat to guests (before the tea), mix powdered bitter green tea (Matcha) and water to make a frothy tea, and serve tea to guests.


The flavors of the sweets and the bitter tea compliment each other - a sign of harmony.




Yuki Ujihara san (left) and Dorito-san (right) drinking tea.






  1. Bow when you receive the cup of tea which is called a chawan.
  2. Take the chawan with your right hand and place it in the palm of your left hand.
  3. Turn the chawan clockwise three times before you take a drink.
  4. When the tea is gone, make a loud slurp to tell the host that the tea was truly enjoyed.
  5. Wipe the part of the chawan your lips touched with your right hand.
  6. Turn the chawan counterclockwise and return to the host.

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The best part of the day...



...was saved for last.



Otanjo bi omedeto.


Arigatou Gozaimasu.

Friday, February 27, 2009

Kyoto

Kyoto, formerly the imperial capital of Japan, is part of the Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto metropolitan area. It is famous for many things including its 1600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines.

We had 1 day in Kyoto, so we saw 3 of those (1600) temples.


We started at Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion).

This elegant building consists of three types of architecture: The 1st floor is Shinden-zukuri, the palace style, named Ho-sui-in. The 2nd floor is Buke-zukuri, the style of the samurai house and is called Cho-on-do. The 3rd floor is Karayo style or Zen temple style, called Kukkyo-cho.


Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga, abdicated the throne in 1394. After three years, he began to build Kitayamaden. After Yoshimitsu’s death, Kitayamaden was made into a Zen temple in accordance with his will. All the buildings of those days came to ruin except Kinkaku. The garden, however, remains as it was, in former days.






Then we went to Ryoan-ji Temple, famous for its Zen garden. Considered to be one of the most notable examples of the "dry-landscape" style, it is an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sitting on a bed of white gravel, surrounded by low walls. Its minimalism inspires contemplation, introspection, and deliberation on the transience of our own humanity.








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Pardon me while I have a strange interlude at the vending machine



Dearest darling little can of creamed corn soup,
Words cannot begin to express my gratitude. You saved me when I was nearly depleted of all my energy. You only cost me 150 Yen, and yet you were the warmest, most satisfying 75 calorie boost I have ever known.
Yours truly,
me


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Finally, the (authentic) Japanese girl is one with the (authentic) Japanese landscape.






The last temple we visited, Ninnaji Temple, is the main temple of the Omuro School of the Shingon sect. Founded on the orders of Emperor Koko and completed in 888.

Many of the buildings and subordinate temples were lost during the Onin War (1467-1477). Most of the surviving buildings date from the 17th century








Then....



...we hit the stores. After all, our visit to Kyoto would not be complete without a little shopping. OK, maybe a lot of shopping - especially at this store, called Raak. (http://www.raak.jp)

This store sold the coolest printed scarves and wall hangings I have ever seen. On the right hand side of this photo is a plaque that tells the nearly 300 year old history of the company. This store is only found in a few locations, exclusively in Kyoto.