Turning Japanese I think I'm turning Japanese...

...I really think so.

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Feb. 24th was a busy day for us, as we learned about traditions in the Japanese theater, dress, and tea ceremony.


The Noh Theater



We began our day meeting with Yuki Ujihara-san (left) and took a brief tour of the public theater for the Noh in the Saitama prefecture.

We had no hopes of meeting with any actors because usually visitors are not allowed to, but Yuki Ujihara-san used to be a student of this Master of the Japanese Drum, and when he saw her in the theater, he invited all of us for a short performance and lesson.



In the world of the Noh he is their most honored. It was a rare privilege to be in his presence.



His name as a Noh Master is Kanze Shinkuro san. His given name is Miyamasu Shinichiro san.




We all tried this drumming technique, which proved to be incredibly difficult.




Noh is a major form of classic Japanese musical drama that has been performed since the 14th century. It evolved from various popular, folk and aristocratic art forms, including Dengaku, Shirabyoshi, and Gagaku. Noh has been slow and stylized for several centuries with roots that can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty's Nuo, Sarugaku and folk theatricals.

By tradition, Noh actors and musicians never rehearse for performances together. Instead, each actor, musician, and choral chanter practices his or her fundamental movements, songs, and dances independently or under the tutelage of a senior member of the school. Thus, the tempo of a given performance is not set by any single performer but established by the interactions of all the performers together. In this way, Noh exemplifies the traditional Japanese aesthetic of transience, called by Sen no Rikyu "ichi-go ichi-e".


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Later that afternoon, we met with this charming Tea Ceremony teacher, beauty salon owner and Noh performer, Mariko Imade san, whom invited us to her home for lessons in Japanese dress and tea ceremonies.



Traditions in Japanese dress - the kimono.

The word "kimono" literally means "thing to wear" (ki "wearing" and mono "thing").





Turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so.





Turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so.







Turning Japanese, I think we're turning Japanese...






...We really think so.


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Tea Ceremony





The tea ceremony is a social event and sometimes a religious experience, which stresses aesthetics.

An informal tea ceremony, known as chakai, consists of serving a sweet and some tea, or even a small meal with the sweet and tea.






The steps to the ceremony are to clean the serving bowls, boil a pot of water, serve a sweet treat to guests (before the tea), mix powdered bitter green tea (Matcha) and water to make a frothy tea, and serve tea to guests.


The flavors of the sweets and the bitter tea compliment each other - a sign of harmony.




Yuki Ujihara san (left) and Dorito-san (right) drinking tea.

1. Bow when you receive the cup of tea which is called a chawan.
2. Take the chawan with your right hand and place it in the palm of your left hand.
3. Turn the chawan clockwise three times before you take a drink.
4. When the tea is gone, make a loud slurp to tell the host that the tea was truly enjoyed.
5. Wipe the part of the chawan your lips touched with your right hand.
6. Turn the chawan counterclockwise and return to the host.

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The best part of the day...



...was saved for last.



Otanjo bi omedeto.


Arigatou Gozaimasu.

Kyoto

Kyoto, formerly the imperial capital of Japan, is part of the Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto metropolitan area. It is famous for many things including its 1600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines.

We had 1 day in Kyoto, so we saw 3 of those (1600) temples.


We started at Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion).

This elegant building consists of three types of architecture: The 1st floor is Shinden-zukuri, the palace style, named Ho-sui-in. The 2nd floor is Buke-zukuri, the style of the samurai house and is called Cho-on-do. The 3rd floor is Karayo style or Zen temple style, called Kukkyo-cho.


Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga, abdicated the throne in 1394. After three years, he began to build Kitayamaden. After Yoshimitsu’s death, Kitayamaden was made into a Zen temple in accordance with his will. All the buildings of those days came to ruin except Kinkaku. The garden, however, remains as it was, in former days.






Then we went to Ryoan-ji Temple, famous for its Zen garden. Considered to be one of the most notable examples of the "dry-landscape" style, it is an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sitting on a bed of white gravel, surrounded by low walls. Its minimalism inspires contemplation, introspection, and deliberation on the transience of our own humanity.








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Pardon me while I have a strange interlude at the vending machine



Dearest darling little can of creamed corn soup,
Words cannot begin to express my gratitude. You saved me when I was nearly depleted of all my energy. You only cost me 150 Yen, and yet you were the warmest, most satisfying 75 calorie boost I have ever known.
Yours truly,
me


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Finally, the (authentic) Japanese girl is one with the (authentic) Japanese landscape.






The last temple we visited, Ninnaji Temple, is the main temple of the Omuro School of the Shingon sect. Founded on the orders of Emperor Koko and completed in 888.

Many of the buildings and subordinate temples were lost during the Onin War (1467-1477). Most of the surviving buildings date from the 17th century








Then....



...we hit the stores. After all, our visit to Kyoto would not be complete without a little shopping. OK, maybe a lot of shopping - especially at this store, called Raak. (http://www.raak.jp)

This store sold the coolest printed scarves and wall hangings I have ever seen. On the right hand side of this photo is a plaque that tells the nearly 300 year old history of the company. This store is only found in a few locations, exclusively in Kyoto.

Kumamoto, our 2nd stop in Kyushu

We arrived in Matsubase, a small town near Kumamoto where Rika's grandmother lives. We took a cab from the station to Oba-chan's (grandmother's) house. Matsubase town is so small that all the cab driver needed to know was Rika's family name, to take us to the right place!


When we arrived Junko-san (Rika's aunt) and Grandmother were preparing Shabu-Shabu for dinner.


This traditional Japanese dish...


...is made with thinly sliced fresh vegetables...


..and beef...


...cooked over a fire pit at the center of the table.



The dish is prepared by submerging meat or vegetables in a pot of boiling water or dashi (broth) and swishing it back and forth several times. The swishing sound is where the dish gets its name. Shabu-shabu roughly translates to "swish-swish".




After dinner we watched Oba-chan's favorite Japanese soap opera, "Wataru Seken Ni Oni Wa Nashi ."




In the room where we slept, there was a portrait of Rika's grandfather next to three banpeiyu. The banpeiyu were grown in the family's orchard, just outside the house.


The next morning Rika's aunt Satoko-san, and dog Ku-chan, visited during breakfast.


Oba-chan's house is nearly 100 years old.


Rika's father and four other siblings were raised here.





Later, we took a day trip to nearby Kumamoto Castle, one of the three most famous fortress-castles in the country. Built by Kato Kiyomasa in 1607, the un-scalable J-shaped stone walls and wooden overhangs, designed to repel the ninja (secret assassins of feudal Japan), made the castle virtually impenetrable .


During Japan’s last civil war in 1877, however, when an army of former samurai unsuccessfully rose up against the new Meiji government, large parts of the castle were destroyed. Today, most of the castle’s buildings, including the towers, were reconstructed in the 1960’s.


View from the top - not bad.


The man who took this photo was part of a large group of young Japanese travelers, all of whom thought the idea of this photo was *very* funny.


(The castles exterior wall and moat)

By the way - You may have seen this historic site in Kurosawa's famous movie "Ran," as he was granted special permission to shoot at Kumamoto Castle.




The next day we went to a street festival in down town Matsubase.


...and enjoyed local pastries (this one is called "taiyaki," which is a pancake-like crust filled with custard - yumm!)...


...games...






...and crafts.



Afterward, we said goodbye to Oba-chan and the orchard surrounding her house.


Then, Rika's aunts took us to the train station and waited outside until we boarded the train...


...bound for Kyoto!

Oita, our first stop in Kyushu

Our first stop in Kyushu was in the Oita Prefecture. Rika-chan introduced me to her friends Tetsushi and Kristina, whom invited us to visit at their house, cafe & store called 'Te De.'


'Te De' literally means 'by hand,' which is precisely what they sell, textiles and furniture they make by hand. All the furniture, clothing, and textile items you see in these photos are designed and created by Tetsushi and Kristina.


You can visit their website at http://www.tede.jp/index.html - I promise, it will not disappoint you.


They are not just crafts people either, they also started a cafe, which is open on the weekends and serves Mexican food - a personal favorite of theirs. (Note: the stools were designed and crafted by Tetsushi -super cool!)


After a fun night drinking sake, they took us to a local onsen, where we had a relaxing bath in natural hot spring water. The next morning they served a delightful breakfast of fresh strawberries, yogurt and toast, as we discussed their plans to continue expanding their business.



After breakfast they took us to a place where we drank the cleanest, tastiest natural mineral water, which is said to cure many ailments.




Then, we visited a beautiful waterfall called Meisui No Taki, which means "waterfalls of famed water."




(Kristina and Tetsushi)


We took a short hike through a beautiful forest. When it began to snow, we took it as a sign to break for lunch at a local cafe. It was a great visit.

Kabuki, Bullet Train, Mt. Fuji, and 9 hours of sleeping sitting up

Kurumaya Ramen is like the Japanese equivalent to diner food in the U.S. It was our tasty, inexpensive answer to lunch before getting ready for the Kabuki theater.




This beautiful building located in Ginza, is known as Kabuki-Za, and is the principal theater in Tokyo for the traditional kabuki drama form. It opened in 1889, and we caught the very *last* performance before they demolish and rebuild the structure.




The performance started at 4:30 and went until 9:30, with 3 intermissions. During the second intermission everyone in the audience opens bento boxes at once. We bought these bento boxes just outside the theater.

Random Fact 14: During the Edo Period (some 200 years ago) Sushi was sold by vendors from stalls on the side of the road. The Kaki (Persimmon) leaves preserved the sushi, and made the food easily transportable, making it the first known 'fast food.'


I wish I could have taken photos of the actors and the sets, but of course that was forbidden. This poster is a hint as to the complexity of the costumes and makeup, but says nothing for the performances themselves, which often included acrobatics. The dialect these performers use is so old that many fluently speaking Japanese cannot even understand, so you can purchase a small set of headphones to hear a translation in real time.

The art of kabuki is passed through family lineage, so you're either born into it, or you're S.O.L. (sorry). In addition, all roles (male and female) are performed by men only --no women.


During the break I took photos of these advertisements -yes, advertisements! These are not set backgrounds. Actually, these ads pale in comparison to the sets, but they are very impressive nonetheless.

Random Fact 15: It is difficult to spot litter on the ground anywhere in Japan. However, it is even more difficult to spot a garbage can believe it or not! The garbage and recycling bins blend perfectly with their surroundings and are few and far between. (Obviously, this is in stark comparison to the U.S. where there is no shortage of either!)


The next day we began our long loooong journey south toward Kyushu Island. Between the subways, the local trains, and the bullet trains we transferred 7 times over the course of our 9 hour journey, and then took a car to the final destination!


The Bullet train moves so fast it makes your ears pop.



The finger on the right represents our starting point, and the finger ont he left represents our end point.


We had bento for lunch -this one was much more elaborate than the one we had a the kabuki theater.


Along the journey we passed Mount Fuji...


...and although I was shooting at 1/125th of a second...


...I still managed to take...

...several *incredibly* bad photos of this glorious sight! (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!)


Ahhh, finally! Still, this is nothing compared to the real thing.


(Naturally, I was not the only one fascinated by this breath-taking sight.)


The country side of Japan is completely different from the city (obviously).


On our last transfer, which was very late at night, we passed this vending machine which sold hot foods, including french fries! (Just when you think you've seen it all...)


Finally, after 9 hours we took our last train ride of the day! I was well accustomed to falling asleep sitting up, much like these folks.

Ginza, the most expensive neighborhood in Tokyo

Ginza is the Park Avenue/Madison Avenue of Tokyo -fancy fancy fancy!


Our first stop in Ginza was Shima hair salon, where we had our hair cut and styled. The people at this salon were so kind, so precise, so professional, and so efficient. To exit the salon you step into an elevator, and they bow to you as the elevator doors close. The experience was pure luxury!


Dear Future Rich Husband,
Please stop worrying about how you will impress and woo me, as the answer is written in the photo above. All you need to know is one word: Mikimoto. Anything in this shop will do.
Love,
me



After drooling over pearls at Mikimoto we had a bite to eat at a charming little noodle place in the neighborhood.




After lunch we strolled the neighborhood.


This clock opens every hour and little mechanical characters play these chimes while tourists like me stand around and watch. Isn't it amazing!


This famous building (which displays the clock) houses two famous department stores called, Hankyu and Seibu, as well as a movie theater known as the Nichigeki Pikadeli Theaters.


Oh NO, not again!



The following photos are of the lobby at the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo, originally designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1916 (demolished in 1968). Unfortunately very little of the original design still exists, but there are obvious traces of his genius scattered about the building...




...like this bar for instance, The Old Imperial Bar, which retains Wrights original wallpaper design, as well as framed blue prints, and furniture.



The cocktail presentation was very impressive, so was the price.


(Original Wright wallpaper selection is on the far wall.)


We met Noda Sensei at the Sony building and walked to a few galleries, and then to dinner...


...at this interesting local place known as Yatai which means "street stall." These types of places are located under the rail road and they are open all night long, closing at 8am. This place specializes in meat skewers, guts and giblets.


The people who worked here were very kind.



We had sake...


...especially since we were about to indulge in heart, liver, skin, intestine, and cartilage.



I am eating heart in this photo! It wasn't bad actually.


Noda Sensei insisted we try eating intestines! Rika-chan was brave, she tried it first.


Noda Sensei liked chatting with the other patrons. He was impressed this man finished his portion of intestines (note the empty bowl in front of him). I took so many photos that this man asked Noda Sensei if I worked for the newspaper.


After dinner we went to a place called Bic Camera, which is a 10 level camera shop -this place is packed with all kinds of camera geer.



ZZZZzzzZZZzzzzZZZZzzzZZZZ
Later, we took the subway back to Kashiwa, and slept on the train.

Random Photos and Random Facts about Japan

Fact 1: This is a Japanese toilet, which baffled me. Women squat, facing the toilet, with their feet on either side of the bowl. The sink is located on top (not featured here).


Fact 2: McDonalds has a different menu in Japan, and the portions are much smaller than in the U.S.


For instance: they sell a "McPork" sandwich, "Shaka Shaka Chicken," and "Shrimp Burger" (not featured in this image). No, I did not eat at McDonalds, I just found the menu interesting, so I photographed it.

Fact 3: The Japanese do not tip - anywhere!

Fact 4: Trains always run on time. If the schedule says 7:53, it will arrive precisely at 7:53!

Fact 5: The Japanese are very aware of the people around them and they do not display affection, speak loudly, or argue in public.


Fact 6: You can buy wonderful ice cream treats in the convenient stores (Am/Pm and Seven Eleven) like this one, which is a giant wafer cookie with vanilla ice cream and chocolate inside. This one is called "Monaka."



Fact 7: Snacks like this one are also prevalent in convenient stores and subway stands. This is my favorite Japanese snack, called "Kaki No Tane," which translates to Persimmon Seeds. Kaki No Tane are spicy rice crackers with peanuts.

Fact 8: "Domo" is a word used for everything - hello, goodbye, thank you, good morning etc etc.

Fact 9: Valentine's Day is the time when women give candies to the men (not the other way around). If the woman's gesture is reciprocated, they will receive candies from a man on "White Day," which is celebrated March 14, exactly 1 month later.


Fact 10: It is NOT uncommon to see women applying makeup in restaurants and subway cars, or other public places. The Japanese do not consider this behavior rude or offensive.


Fact 11: I do not have any idea what this means, which is precisely why I took a photo of it. Patio Yourself?


Fact 12: "Freshness" is not a real word, but "Freshness Burger" is a real Japanese chain restaurant, found all over Tokyo.


Fact 13: I thought this was cute - typical Japanese character that you find on food products.