Friday, February 27, 2009

Kyoto

Kyoto, formerly the imperial capital of Japan, is part of the Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto metropolitan area. It is famous for many things including its 1600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines.

We had 1 day in Kyoto, so we saw 3 of those (1600) temples.


We started at Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion).

This elegant building consists of three types of architecture: The 1st floor is Shinden-zukuri, the palace style, named Ho-sui-in. The 2nd floor is Buke-zukuri, the style of the samurai house and is called Cho-on-do. The 3rd floor is Karayo style or Zen temple style, called Kukkyo-cho.


Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga, abdicated the throne in 1394. After three years, he began to build Kitayamaden. After Yoshimitsu’s death, Kitayamaden was made into a Zen temple in accordance with his will. All the buildings of those days came to ruin except Kinkaku. The garden, however, remains as it was, in former days.






Then we went to Ryoan-ji Temple, famous for its Zen garden. Considered to be one of the most notable examples of the "dry-landscape" style, it is an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sitting on a bed of white gravel, surrounded by low walls. Its minimalism inspires contemplation, introspection, and deliberation on the transience of our own humanity.








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Pardon me while I have a strange interlude at the vending machine



Dearest darling little can of creamed corn soup,
Words cannot begin to express my gratitude. You saved me when I was nearly depleted of all my energy. You only cost me 150 Yen, and yet you were the warmest, most satisfying 75 calorie boost I have ever known.
Yours truly,
me


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Finally, the (authentic) Japanese girl is one with the (authentic) Japanese landscape.






The last temple we visited, Ninnaji Temple, is the main temple of the Omuro School of the Shingon sect. Founded on the orders of Emperor Koko and completed in 888.

Many of the buildings and subordinate temples were lost during the Onin War (1467-1477). Most of the surviving buildings date from the 17th century








Then....



...we hit the stores. After all, our visit to Kyoto would not be complete without a little shopping. OK, maybe a lot of shopping - especially at this store, called Raak. (http://www.raak.jp)

This store sold the coolest printed scarves and wall hangings I have ever seen. On the right hand side of this photo is a plaque that tells the nearly 300 year old history of the company. This store is only found in a few locations, exclusively in Kyoto.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Kumamoto, our 2nd stop in Kyushu


We arrived in Matsubase, a small town near Kumamoto where Rika's grandmother lives. We took a cab from the station to Oba-chan's (grandmother's) house. Matsubase town is so small that all the cab driver needed to know was Rika's family name, to take us to the right place!


When we arrived Junko-san (Rika's aunt) and Grandmother were preparing Shabu-Shabu for dinner.


This traditional Japanese dish...


...is made with thinly sliced fresh vegetables...


..and beef...


...cooked over a fire pit at the center of the table.



The dish is prepared by submerging meat or vegetables in a pot of boiling water or dashi (broth) and swishing it back and forth several times. The swishing sound is where the dish gets its name. Shabu-shabu roughly translates to "swish-swish".




After dinner we watched Oba-chan's favorite Japanese soap opera, "Wataru Seken Ni Oni Wa Nashi ."




In the room where we slept, there was a portrait of Rika's grandfather next to three banpeiyu. The banpeiyu were grown in the family's orchard, just outside the house.


The next morning Rika's aunt Satoko-san, and dog Ku-chan, visited during breakfast.


Oba-chan's house is nearly 100 years old.


Rika's father and four other siblings were raised here.





Later, we took a day trip to nearby Kumamoto Castle, one of the three most famous fortress-castles in the country. Built by Kato Kiyomasa in 1607, the un-scalable J-shaped stone walls and wooden overhangs, designed to repel the ninja (secret assassins of feudal Japan), made the castle virtually impenetrable .


During Japan’s last civil war in 1877, however, when an army of former samurai unsuccessfully rose up against the new Meiji government, large parts of the castle were destroyed. Today, most of the castle’s buildings, including the towers, were reconstructed in the 1960’s.


View from the top - not bad.


The man who took this photo was part of a large group of young Japanese travelers, all of whom thought the idea of this photo was *very* funny.


(The castles exterior wall and moat)

By the way - You may have seen this historic site in Kurosawa's famous movie "Ran," as he was granted special permission to shoot at Kumamoto Castle.




The next day we went to a street festival in down town Matsubase.


...and enjoyed local pastries (this one is called "taiyaki," which is a pancake-like crust filled with custard - yumm!)...


...games...






...and crafts.



Afterward, we said goodbye to Oba-chan and the orchard surrounding her house.


Then, Rika's aunts took us to the train station and waited outside until we boarded the train...


...bound for Kyoto!